November 2015


Hello Friends,


You might have noticed the Halloween skeleton riding the pig up on the rooftop through Homecoming weekend. In fact, as of today, he or she is still up there due to all the rain we've had lately which has prevented Mark Elliott & I from venturing up on the roof. But we've found him/her amusing & hope you have also.  Not so much with all this rain although the plants have benefited. Seth Hand has put the pots in Fall/Winter mode with ornamental cabbages, budding snapdragons & colorful pansies (Mike Klein's favorite). The Beautyberry Bushes are displaying their plump purple berries soon to be ravished by birds, the Lantanas giving their last hurrah and the bowl of Pitcher Plants have intensified their color in a last display before Winter sets them back. No worries they all will be back next Spring. 

Speaking of Fall, Bill Smith has constructed a Menu with some old favorites along with some new offerings. I'll start with desserts. 

(photo courtesy of the Local Palate)

Persimmon Pudding  has maybe one week left . Persimmons are the star in The Local Palate magazine's Thanksgiving issue too. Bill Smith tells of our friend, now 90-years-old, Mrs. Mary Andrews, who started bringing in buckets of native persimmons years ago collected by spreading out sheets underneath her trees. Now her son & daughter-in-law do most of the gathering although, knowing her, I'm sure she still has her hand in it. Thank you for the great reporting from The Local Palate editor Maggie White. 


Apple Rum Skillet Cake  is a new item that's just right. Bill Smith recommends it with freshly whipped cream or his churned vanilla ice cream-or why not both.

New too is Deep Purple Scuppernong Sorbet. Note: Muscadines are green and Scuppernongs are purple (though the two NC native grapes are often conflated/confused for each other). People seem in awe of the color intensity, a rich purple, but it's the taste that has impressed me. Reminds me of when I was a kid and we would pick them off a neighbor's vine; thick skinned with seeds and somewhat difficult to eat but rewarding for the effort with the intense sweetness. We got a nice case of juice from Carolina Wild whose byline about the native grape is "a Southern Secret since 1594". We suggest you order at least one cup and share if you are doing an around-the-table sampling of sweets, as many do. 

How many of you have tasted Turtle Soup? Do you know the writer Jack Hitt? Now is your chance to be in the know, as of Tuesday and probably only for this week, it's on the menu in response to the extensive piece in Saveur magazine "What Ever Happened to Turtle Soup: Exploring the Disappearance (and Rediscovery) of a Centuries-Old Culinary Tradition" taking us on a trip back to the founding of the U.S., into the mountains for turtle hunting and landing in the kitchen at Crook's where Bill Smith and Jack Hitt cook up some fine Cooter Stew (they call it). Bill Smith shares his recipe within this extraordinary piece of food journalism that we recommend you read in this November issue of Saveur. The soup for-"the poor and privileged man alike....sought out for its legendary flavor" is on now and we'll see how many of you give it a go!  See why "no dish says democracy like turtle soup." You can read it here.

(Photo by Matt Taylor-Gross for Saveur)

Here are the top nine dishes to try at Crook's in November (you might have your own ideas from the full menu):

1/ Persimmon Pudding (This week only (probably)-highly seasonal as the berries don't freeze that well.)

2/ Scuppernong Sorbet

3/ Apple Rum Skillet Cake (w/ whipped cream, ice cream, or both)

4/ Turtle Soup (A nod to Saveur's article. This week only.)

5/ Fried Oysters with garlic mayonnaise!

6/ Steak Frites (Grilled NY Strips with Bill Smith's Bourbon-Brown Sauce, a Bordelaise sauce over crispy fresh French fries.)

7/ Crab Claws Biscayne  (Broiled w/ Bacon and a Citrus Relish.)

8/ Carolina Q (Featuring Snook's from Advance, NC, on November 18th). Q Wednesdays have been so popular that beginning in January I will be going out every instead of every other.

9/ Cheese Pork! One helluva pork schnitzel and a major favorite. Yum!! Begins next week.

Many might add to that list the return of Bill Smith's Seasoned in the South favorites we'll have on through December: Green Tabasco Chicken (½ roasted bird doused with Green Tabasco Sauce, served w/ mashed potatoes & sautéed leeks & cabbage), the B&B Salad (Brussels sprouts & blue cheese crumbles w/ red onions & toasted walnuts), and Southern RisottoWoodfruit's oyster mushrooms, with Anson Mills' Carolina Gold rice.

New additions to the growing Crook's Corner Bar LibraryBill Smith's new recipe and story collection, Crabs & Oysters;  Saveur's November issue,; The Local Palate's November issue; and the four finalists for the third annual Crook's Corner Book Prize just announced. Esteemed author and Hillsborough neighbor Lee Smith chooses the winner to be announced on January 4th. Here are the novels set in the Southern U.S. that made the cut from the 18 on the longlist. If you don't know these authors, that's OK because they are emerging writers; the goal of the prize is to recognize first published novels. The Final Four:

Jam on the Vine , by LaShonda Katrice Barnett

The Mauraders , by Tom Cooper

Soil , by Jamie Kornegay

Against the Country , by Ben Metcalf

 Read more here  about the finalists and about the only book prize in the U.S. hosted by a restaurant (that's us, Crook's)

And if you prefer listening rather than reading, we recommend ,as NPR has recently: "Bill Smith Turns up the Volume" as a great podcast. Listen here.

Bar Notes: Looking for a wine to pair with Bill Smith's Turtle Soup?  Manager Kyle has put the Tellus Vinea, a 2011 Bordeaux, on the list just for this very dish. "The Tellus Vinea strikes a nice balance between earthiness and fruit.  There is a little bit of truffle and black olive hanging out there with the cherry and blackberry notes. Wonderful with the unique Turtle Soup or any heavy-duty, hearty fall foods."


On The Walls:  For November, Julia Kennedy's vibrant, colorful abstracts.


As always, thank you for your friendship and patronage,


Gene Hamer